Chapters
0:00 Alessandro Vigilante
4:10 Simon Cracker
7:32 Interview With Simon Cracker
11:08 Marcello Pipitone
14:50 Interview With Marcello Pipitone
16:26 Gentile Caatone
18:55 ATXV
22:25 Italian Family
26:13 CTRL+Z
30:17 Kids Of Broken Future
34:30 Final Total Exit
Rebirth is the underlying theme that inspired the work of the committee of experts of the eagerly awaited scouting project promoted by Altaroma and Vogue Italia, “Who is on Next? 2021” – rebirth in the sense of restart and change, which takes into account the inspirations and new drivers of fashion. “Who is on Next?” is all this. It is a unique initiative, organized thanks to the support of the Chamber of Commerce of Rome and of the Region of Lazio. Over the years, it has launched now
internationally acclaimed designers.
Gender fluidity, inclusion, and sustainability are no longer a trend, but a necessity. This has been demonstrated by the significant number of applications received from designers who are attentive to these aspects. This is also evident in the collections of the twelve selected participants, who are divided into the prêt-à-porter and accessories categories, including the confirmed Menswear section.
The award ceremony will be held in the Cinecittà Studios and it will be broadcast live through Altaroma’s digital platform – now also available as an app for tablets and smartphones. The selected brands are given the unique opportunity to present their creations to a jury of international experts and to receive the support they need to consolidate their positions in national and foreign markets.
The emerging designers of this season are the following: Alessandro Vigilante, ATXV, CTRL+Z, Gentile Catone, Id-Eight, Italian Family, KOBF – Kidsofbrokenfuture, Marcello Pipitone, Marco Trevisan, Niccolò Pasqualetti, Piferi, Simon Cracker. They will be evaluated by a jury of internationally acclaimed experts from the world of publishing, distribution and from the fashion industry: Paul Andrew (Designer); Laird Borrelli-Persson (Archive Editor at Vogue US); Manuela Brini (Director of Creative Talent Acquisition and Development at LVHM Fashion Group); Carlo Capasa (President of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), Emanuele Farneti (Editor in Chief Vogue Italia e L’Uomo Vogue), Simonetta Gianfelici (Fashion Consultant & Talent Scout, Head of Project “Who is on Next?” at Altaroma); Umberta Gnutti Beretta (Mentoring Fund – Camera Moda Fashion Trust); Aldo Gotti (General Manager – MODES ); Stavros Karelis (Founder of MACHINEA); Tasha Liu (Catalyst Scouting and Founder of Labelhood); Sara Sozzani Maino (Deputy Director Vogue Italia, Head of Vogue Talents and International Brand Ambassador CNMI); Marco Mantellassi (CEO of Manteco); Suzy Menkes (Fashion Critic); Vania Miranda (Mentoring Fund – Camera Moda Fashion Trust); Raffaello Napoleone (CEO of Pitti Immagine); Luca Rizzi (Pitti Tutoring & Consulting Director ); Warly Tomei (Mentoring Fund – Camera Moda Fashion Trust); Matteo Ward (Sustainable Activist – Wrad Living) and Silvia Venturini Fendi (Creative Director at Fendi and President of Altaroma).
Together with the other institutions of Italian fashion, the Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana (the National Chamber for Italian Fashion) and Pitti Immagine, Altaroma, and Vogue Italia will select the winners of the FRANCA SOZZANI AWARD in the framework of “Who is on Next? 2021”.
Altaroma and Vogue Italia will award the winners cash prizes and they will give them the opportunity to be featured on the magazine Vogue Italia. Furthermore, the winning designers will hold two meetings with experts from the organizations to receive support and guidance.
Altaroma will invite all the finalists and the winners of the 2021 edition to participate in Altaroma in January 2022. The Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana will invite the winners to present their collections at Milano Fashion Week Men’s Collection January 2022 and Milano Fashion Week Women’s Collection September 2022. Pitti Immagine will give two finalists the Pitti Tutoring & Consulting Award, i.e. a pro bono 6-month mentorship programme to support and promote fashion
designers in their professional and creative path on the fashion market.
A new addition to Who is on Next? is the Manteco Award, promoted by the textile company of the same name, which was founded in Tuscany in 1941 and is now a world leader in the production of luxury fabrics and sustainable practices. Manteco has always been committed to the research and development of cutting-edge production processes, keeping ties with its tradition, but with an eye on the future. With this award, the company will support the winning designer by supplying its high-quality fabrics for the creation of the fall/winter and spring/summer collections. In addition, Altaroma and CNMI, together with Camera Moda Fashion Trust, have launched a fundraising campaign to support the emerging designers who have participated in the initiative.
BRANDS
WOMEN’S prêt-à-porter:
ALESSANDRO VIGILANTE
Passion, craftsmanship, and audacity define the career of Alessandro Vigilante. Born in 1982, of Apulian origins, he has always combined fashion and dance, the cornerstones of his inspiration and style. This inner world and his professional experiences – 7 years at Dolce & Gabbana, then Gucci and Philosophy
– gave rise to the need to communicate his own personal vision of style and femininity, with the launch of his eponymous brand. Alessandro Vigilante blends perspective and aesthetics, spanning from Merce Cunningham to Pina Bausch. The female body is a body in motion. Each garment gives the wearer an
enhanced awareness of her own physique through sartorial quality and free deconstruction, towards an absolute celebration of individuality.
https://www.alessandrovigilante.it/
GENTILE CATONE
Created in 2017 by Francesco Gentile and Chiara Catone – a couple in life and work – when they decided to devote themselves to beauty and fashion, the brand is a kaleidoscope of delicate inspirations and futuristic visions, exchanges, and shared experiences. A distinctive feature of the brand are the sophisticated prints, a combination of romanticism and gentleness, a symbol of spontaneous and subversive femininity, impalpable yet incisive, changing and versatile. At the same time, the collections are contemporary and sophisticated, refined and modern, natural and environmentally sustainable. They have a reduced environmental impact, as they are produced by certified companies. The protagonist of the textures and prints is nature in all its colorful tones – an exhilarating and wonderful nature in which
to indulge without hesitation.
https://www.gentilecatone.com/
MEN’S prêt-à-porter:
ITALIAN FAMILY
Gabriele Santoriello
grew up in his family’s tailor’s shop and trained at the Istituto Superiore di Design in Naples. After several experiences and collaborations with important brands and companies, he decided to set up an Italian Family. This is how his entrepreneurial project started, a contemporary reinterpretation of the finest tradition of Neapolitan tailoring. His keywords are cross-fertilization and contrast – opposing worlds with the same DNA. It is what the designer calls Urban Tailoring, a style that retains a classic soul and blends elegance with the shapes, volumes, fabrics, and colors of more casual menswear.
https://www.italian-family.it/
KOBF – KIDSOFBROKENFUTURE
KOBF – kidsofbrokenfuture is the brand of Spanish designer Marta Sanchez Castañeda and her husband Elbio Bonsaglio. It pursues responsibility in all its production processes, with a focus on environmental impact and on the needs of workers, customers, and suppliers. The brand was born out of Marta’s idea to
create a contemporary, avant-garde, sustainable, and even slightly irreverent line, different from all the existing ones. Inspired by the subcultures of the late 20th century, the intention is to curb society’s tendency to be short-sighted with respect to evolution, about which only ʻkids’ are actually concerned.
The indifference of the general public can only be countered by the efforts of younger generations, to which the brand caters.
https://www.kidsofbrokenfuture.com/
MARCELLO PIPITONE
Marcello Pipitone is the designer of the eponymous menswear brand. After graduating from the IED in Milan and gaining some work experience, he decided to start his own project in 2019. The brand distinguishes itself by its unique pieces, made ad hoc and with a responsible approach. Indeed, recovery
(of stories, lives, and knowledge that are transformed into garments) is the main element of the brand’s style. The creative process and production cycle enhance the value of each of the Milanese designer’s creations thanks to the use of a variety of fabrics and materials – mostly derived from upcycling.
https://marcellopipitone.com/
GENDER NEUTRAL prêt-à-porter:
ATXV
No barriers, no rules to follow. Antonio Tarantini designs his collections following new concepts elaborated through the re-imagination and the natural and spontaneous combination of all the elements of the men’s and women’s wardrobe. A new language for new silhouettes: circular and draped garments,
asymmetrical lines, and unexpected cuts enhance and expose body parts without preconceptions. A minimalist, fresh sensuality, not only in the result but also and above all in the production. In fact, minimization also concerns the environmental impact. The brand strives to make fashion responsibly, in
a sustainable perspective, as it tries to achieve zero waste in the design and production of garments, for instance by recovering unused fabrics from previous seasons to create the new collections.
https://www.instagram.com/atxv.milano/
SIMON CRACKER
Simon Cracker is a genderless brand that stems from the inspiration and personal experience of its founder, Simone Botte, who designs its collections. Books, paintings, music, films: everything that is part of the designer’s education is transformed into ideas, styles, and shapes for his own creations. The latter is free of all constraints and definitions, immune to discrimination, and they provide a new perspective on contemporary prêt-à-porter. “Crack is the fundamental concept of my brand – explains the designer – It means destruction. Every time I show a new concept, I am doing something very therapeutic. It makes me feel liberated.”
https://www.simoncrackermilano.com
CTRL+Z
The combination of these keys on a computer is used to undo the last action performed. In a world where “fast fashion” devours everything it produces, this brand does the opposite. It presses CTRL+Z to look (back) at what it is leaving behind, recover it and re-invent it, enriching the present and safeguarding the future. Made-in-Italy fashion harbors many treasures that risk being abandoned. The world of craftsmanship is one of them, and the CTRL+Z project – founded by Valentina Battaglia, Camilla De Santis, Beatrice Giaccaglia, and Irene Piccirilli – aims to recover them by reinterpreting the past in an intelligent and innovative way. Each garment is made entirely in Italy from natural fabrics and yarns, most of which are recovered from leftover stock, while others are supplied by companies dealing in
recycled or regenerated fabrics. The aim is not to introduce new materials into an already highly saturated segment, but to use them in avant-garde productions with rich and lively palettes.
https://www.studio-ctrlz.com/
accessories:
ID EIGHT
ID.EIGHT is a brand of sustainable, made-in-Italy sneakers that are not only unisex and cruelty-free, but also made of materials derived from the by-products of the food industry, such as apple skins, grape stalks, and skins, and pineapple leaves. The brand was founded in 2019 by South Korean fashion designer Dong Seon and by Italian product manager Giuliana Borzillo. Aware of the environmental issues plaguing the industry, Dong Seon and Giuliana decided to chart a course for positive change in the fashion world by creating a start-up to reduce the waste of resources. The formula consists in combining the technology of circular innovation with historic local production to create a casual, genderless design with references to the colors and aesthetics of the Nineties.
https://www.id-eight.com/
MARCO TREVISAN
Designer and craftsman, Marco Trevisan immediately demonstrated innate creativity, a sense of style and strong manual ability, and a passion for high-quality craftsmanship. His brand makes precious collections of handmade bags with unique designs. All the steps of the production process are made by hand: from the design to the paper pattern to the finished product. His is a constant search for perfection, experimenting with styles, materials, and workmanship to achieve the ideal of true luxury. All this without neglecting the issue of sustainability, as the brand searches for materials and technologies that reduce the environmental impact.
https://www.marco-trevisan.com/
NICCOLÒ PASQUALETTI
Stone and water, fluidity and sensuality, inspirations, and intuitions take shape in the lines of Niccolò Pasqualetti, founder, and designer of the eponymous brand. In his vision, the art forms of clothing and jewelry are to a large extent undifferentiated. The brand’s basic idea is an ergonomic design that enables profound integration into everyday life. Materials are recycled and reused to become unique, no longer superfluous, for collections with ambivalent androgyny that are based on biomorphism.
https://niccolopasqualetti.com
PIFERI
Alfredo Piferi is the founder of the Piferi brand, which produces elegantly designed vegan shoes for women, blending luxury and sustainability into one product. Intrigued by the architectural side of shoe design, and after numerous experiences with internationally renowned brands such as Jimmy Choo, Alfredo has developed a unique concept, inspired by the shapes and structures of surrealism, and challenging new styles, proportions and dynamics. The result is a line of exclusive, 100% vegan footwear: pumps, boots, sandals, cutaway clogs, and elegant designer ballet pumps. Produced and designed entirely in Italy, in Parabiago, outside Milan, Piferi’s shoes combine the finest Italian craftsmanship with the most modern production techniques, respecting our planet and all its living creatures.
https://www.piferi.com
